Our first stop was Mevagissey (Mev-uh-giz-ee – just to remind myself of its pronunciation) a working class port town with (some) nice shops and a busy touristy working harbour. It would have probably been much nicer if it wasn’t for all the people piling in, so we had a quick bite, a walk around and took the scenic drive to Portloe.
As we arrived in Portloe we were so relieved to realise that, unlike other places, such as Port Isaac etc, it has managed to escape most large-scale tourism, so it still feels like a genuine working fishing village with just a handful of boats landing crab and lobster. Yay! I cannot think of a better place to be! 🦞
The Lugger treated us well, tasty food, great breakfast, friendly people and proximity to a small beautiful harbour where kids could swim at high tide.
Portloe Harbour – one of Cornwall’s smallest and most picturesque working fishing harbours. Tucked into a steep, narrow valley on the Roseland Peninsula, it feels remarkably unchanged, with granite cottages clustered around a tiny natural harbour.
named after a lugger—a traditional fishing and smuggling sailing boat that was once common around the coasts of Cornwall
A ship’s figurehead mounted inside The Ship Inn in Portloe. Traditionally, figureheads were carved wooden sculptures fixed to the bow of sailing ships. They were believed to protect the vessel and bring good luck. They identified the ship from a distance and displayed the owner’s wealth and craftsmanship.
The pub in Portloe called the Ship Inn began life in the 17th century as a fisherman’s cottage, and it was later known locally as ‘The Portloe Drinking Kitchen’, has long been at the heart of village life.
The pub has quite a remarkable recent history too I thought:
- In 2024, it was put up for sale.
- Local residents formed the Portloe Community Benefit Society to save it.
- The community successfully bought the pub in 2025, renovated it, and reopened it as a community-owned free house.
On day 2, after breakfast, we left The Lugger and walked through Portloe harbour to join the South West Coast Path heading to West Portholland, with lovely views back towards Portloe; we continued along the dramatic cliffs until we got ‘distracted’ by a small rocky cove below, one of several inaccessible little inlets along this stretch, which makes the scenery feel wonderfully wild and we could not resist the descent for a quick swim!
This is the beach 🏖️. It was a great place and an amazing view. I think climbing on the rocks to reach it was the best part 🧗♀️but we had to leave all though It was still an amazing experience in Cornwall 🌽. writing ✍️ by Kara
On the South West Coast Path between Portloe and West Portholland, looking west along the coast towards Gerrans Bay.
We didn’t make it to Carne Beach as were keen to find the Hidden Hut above Porthcurnick beach open for late lunch, but definitely a walk we would have liked to complete so we will probably need to be back! Obviously a very popular place with most items on the menu sold out by 3pm, but still, even with limited choice, we had a super tasty lunch. Beans and chorizo hake stew was my no regrets choice!
The Hidden Hut isn’t really that hidden, and as mum said, 4 or 5 things were off the menu – Leon
We started day 3 with an ambitious run (more like interval training!) on the coastal path heading towards Portholland Beach this time. Not an easy trail with several steep climbs and descents and some steps, but what an experience, the views are totally worth it!
After breakfast we ventured out of Portloe to experience both the beautiful estuary around Trelissick and the Roseland coastline. Without retracing our steps, to took this loop drive Portloe → Trelissick → King Harry Ferry → St Mawes → Portloe.
We decided to take the ferry, one of Cornwall’s most charming way to travel – instead of driving all the way around via Truro, it carries cars, cyclists and foot passengers across the River Fal between Feock and Philleigh in about 10 minutes.
A few things make it special:
- It’s one of only five chain ferries in England.
- The ferry is pulled across the river by heavy chains lying on the riverbed, rather than by propellers alone.
- There has been a ferry crossing here for well over 500 years, with the current vehicle ferry service dating back to 1888.
After the ferry crossing we all went for a gentle walk at Trelissick gardens catching up with friends. After the dramatic cliffs around Portloe, Trelissick offers a completely different side of Cornwall—peaceful estuary views instead of open sea, set on a peninsula overlooking the River Fal.
Beautiful woodland walks, colourful borders, an orchard and sweeping lawns at Tresillick
And… the best way to wrap up a day in Cornwall, early dinner at the Reef Knot Restaurant at Idle Rock Hotel which focuses on fresh Cornish seafood and local seasonal produce. We had the best views at sunset and an excellent seafood menu 🦀.
Sadly, our last say has come and after a quick (kids) swim in Portloe we started making our way back, but not before trialling the Cornish Italian! What a lovely way to wrap up a wonderful pre-birthday celebration trip! Simple, basic but very tasty menu of fresh pasta made daily following Italian authentic recipes with Cornish local ingredients.
Good bye Cornwall, thank you for all the fun and see you soon!
Focaccia at the Cornish Italian! 🇮🇹
You know it aaall! 