Day 1 Râşnov – Brasov attempt: our adventure started in Rasnov with the intention of walking to Brasov, but since we made it late in the day, we/ I chickened out panicking at the thought of a potential bear encounter 🐻 After a brisk 1hr loop we decided to drive to Brasov (an old favourite hangout.)
- We HAD TO go back to Juno’s for a quick pre-dinner drink! We like the atmosphere and their wine selection (although very limited if you want a wine by glass and not willing to commit to a bottle).
- We resisted the temptation of going to any of the known food places and decided to try something new: One Soul. What a find, we loved it! Cool dining, super relaxed modern environment that allows muddy shoes like ours in! Fairly priced too.
Day 2: Criț – Cloaşterf – Saschiz – Criț
- We walked to Cloașterf but did not have time to stop and visit the church, a wonderful village though, my favourite so far! We continued our walk to Saschiz, some pretty views along the way and a rewarding stop at Tei Teehaus in Saschiz (this is also a bike rental centre so we’ll be saving their number for next time.)
- From Sachiz we cycled back to Criț via Cloașterf. We tried to find an alternative cycle path but ended up pushing bikes over the mountain, what an adventure!
- We had slept and had dinner at La Hansi an authentic stay in a restored Saxon house. We felt they could have made more of an effort with the food like making their own bread etc. but hey, an authentic place to stay so I think they can get away with it!
Day 3: Criț – Mesendorf – Criț – Viscri – Criş
- A bit of cheating today today as we cycled to Mesendorf (We really could not find the path to Bunesti so we came back to Criț and drove to Viscri.)
- Mesendorf was a bit dead, an unfriendly chap ‘welcomed’ us at Punct Gastronomic 65 where we turned up without a booking! Totally understand we were turned down, but I don’t think you need a booking to be offered a glass of water! Definitely worth the stop, just call 24hrs in advance to make a booking.
- Viscri was nice and chilled despite the obvious touristic presence. We found a nice pizza place and a cool coffee spot, deViscri . Both really enjoyable 🙂
- The King’s House in Viscri was lovely, a humble but very tastefully designed museum with an elegant gift shop. We learned here about Charles III’s links with Transylvania and his interest and immense support for the area. Bittersweet to realise how far we can go with a bit of leadership.
Day 4: Cris – Florești – Malancrav – Cris
What an adventure we had today, breathtaking walk through quintessential Transylvanian hills and meadows with lots of colourful pretty wild flowers. First day we actually met some people on the trail and unsurprisingly… they were German.
- We ate at Punct Gastronomic Bucătăria Mamei in Malancrav but unfortunately we were not impressed, I would not recommend the stop, you’re better off making your own sandwiches. Gustav says the lifesaving thing is that there were pickles to kill any smell or taste you didn’t like. I wouldn’t be as harsh, but I would confidently say overcooked white rice or shop bought sliced bread do not count as traditional food.
- Going past the sheep/goat hold în Florești was interesting and the walk itself was beautiful 🤩 the Malancrav end though, is another story…
- We walked up the hill to see the church and a German guy who left with his family in 1990s came to open the door for us and it was very interesting have a chat and to exchange perspectives.
- Nothing beats a small beer by the side of the road while waiting for the cab (with no air in!) to take us back to Criş.
- And the icing on the cake, was the stay at Bethlen Estate was just wow, the food, the wine, the service, the people, the accommodation – everything was top notch!
Day 5: Cris – Aurel Vlaicu- Sighișoara
- We stayed at Casă cu Prispă just outside Sighișoara in the village-like neighbourhood of Aurel Vlaicu, a perfect choice away from the city, great base for a family with kids. The pool, the play area, the atmosphere was great! A super clean place, well looked after that serves better food than the the city of Sighișoara.
- We walked another segment of Via Transilvanica from Aurel Vlaicu to Sighișoara, a pretty forest walk away from the burning sun and we were rewarded with great views over the citadel and the old medieval town. It’s always great to walk in the citadel and see the old guilds – Sighișoara has 19 craft guilds that received status and privileges (abolished in late 1800s as they lost significance). The competition between different guilds were fierce so the guilds had the right to confiscate the goods brought by other craftsmen (worse than the competing souvenir shops today!)
- Food wise we were disappointed as not much has changed in the last 10 years (from our last visit). Luckily we had a lovely spot sitting outside and an entertaining waiter at the Joseph Haydn house.
You know it aaall! 